Abhinaya Harigovind
Feb 21, Chennai: Residents of the Lala Gunda area in Old Washermenpet are no help in locating the treasure in their vicinity. A shrug and “they are everywhere” is the most you will get by way of direction. When their neighbours have been manufacturing butter biscuits for generations now, it hardly counts as treasure.
If you follow your nose, you can sniff your way through the maze of alleys to the butter biscuit factories of Lala Gunda in Old Washermanpet. The golden brown, sweet-salt biscuits that are a fixture at every tea shop in the city, are manufactured in thousands at each of these bakeries.
“We don’t keep count of how many biscuits we bake in a day,” says 33-year-old Jawahar Sathi who owns SP Bakery. “There are roughly 150 biscuits in each batch that goes into the oven, but we don’t keep count of the batches,” he says, removing trays of perfectly round baked cookies from a rack that has just been removed from the oven.

According to him, SP Bakery is one of the smallest in the area. The entire baking process is completed in a single room and the only machine they have is the oven. They supply biscuits to around 60 tea shops in Chennai.
While 44-year-old H Sardar cuts the dough with a circular mould, he says, “Biscuits are priced between Re 1 and Rs 5 with the smallest one being the
cheapest, though they all taste the same.” The top surface of each biscuit is emblazoned with the name of the bakery.
A little distance away, MS Bakery is bigger both in terms of the space, the machinery they use to bake and the number of tea stalls they supply. Thirty-seven-year-old Habibullah says that they supply around 500 tea stalls in Chennai and in nearby Pondicherry and Coimbatore.
Ready to be popped into the oven | Deepti Sri
He has recently bought a wire cutter to cut the dough into circles for Rs 8 lakhs. “We also bought a mixer last year to knead the dough. Earlier, men would knead and cut the dough. Bigger bakeries choose to use machines now,” he says. MS Bakery employs 30 workers, including women who work at the back of the room to pack the biscuits. Men work the machines.
The 25-year-old bakery has been moving from one street to another in Old Washermenpet for the last few years. “The bakeries here keep moving from building to building, but in the same area, depending on rent and how willing the owner is to let us rent the space for longer,” says Habibullah. His older brother has recently taken over the business from his father.
Both Habibullah and Jawahar concurred that the business has been steady for many years. “Apart from Chennai, we also sell biscuits to suppliers in Andhra Pradesh and nearby areas in Tamil Nadu. So the demand is consistent,” Habibullah says.
According to S Surendran, Secretary of the Chennai Metropolitan Tea Shop Owners’ Association, there are around 5000 licensed tea stalls in the city. “In 2014, the Corporation decided that they would issue trade licenses in a day. Now that people get the licenses easily, the number of unlicensed tea stalls has been falling over the years and more people are entering the business. The Corporation claims that 3000 new tea stalls have got their licenses since 2014,” he says.
The prices at these tea stalls cannot be raised beyond a point since people are counting on these places being cheap, he says. He attributes the consistency in demand to the prices. “But now that big companies like Britannia are making smaller, cheaper packets of biscuits, the demand for the butter biscuits has been falling in the city. Some of these bakeries would have shut down over the years because they cannot hike their prices too much,” he says.
“People buy these biscuits more out of habit than anything else. It becomes a routine to buy the butter biscuit with tea and this is what sustains the business,” he says.
Armugham, who works at a tea stall in Taramani, sells around 50 locally made biscuits in a day. He stocks different varieties of these biscuits in glass jars and does not sell any of the big brands that come in packets. “These are cheaper for me to stock than the branded packets of biscuits,” he says. He collects the butter biscuits from Old Washermanpet around once a week.
The smell of the biscuits lingers well past the bylanes of Lala Gunda and follows you out of Old Washermanpet.